Calla Lily / Peace Lily crochet pattern

© June Gilbank 2025

Crochet realistic Calla, Peace, or Arum Lily flowers – elegant, sculptural blooms that look stunning in a tall vase and are perfect for modern floral arrangements, wedding bouquets, or Easter décor.

Mix and match with my other cut flower crochet patterns to create your own custom display in your favourite colours! Make your lilies in classic white, or get creative: try yellow, orange, pink or dark purple.

This Calla Lily or Peace Lily pattern is Donationware – the pattern is available for free, but if you like it please consider sending me a donation to show your appreciation:

Send me a donation and receive the easy-to-print PDF version of the pattern as a thank you! It includes some additional info that you’ll only find in the PDF version:
– Additional assembly photos
– Bonus tips for a more resilient flower
– A special technique for fastening off the yarn neatly at the base of the stem

Donations of any size are much appreciated. Just add the amount you wish to donate, and, once you have checked out and paid, your pattern will instantly be available to download from your PlanetJune account.

The complete pattern and instructions are available below, regardless of whether or not you choose to pay for them 🙂

This is a PlanetJune original crochet pattern. Feel free to use items made from this pattern however you wish, but I’d appreciate credit as the pattern designer. Please do not reproduce the pattern anywhere else; instead post a link to www.planetjune.com/callalily or www.planetjune.com/peacelily

Not ready to make it yet? Add it to your Ravelry queue:

A Botanical Note…

Technically, this lily is not a flower! The ‘petal’ is actually a spathe, a modified leaf that surrounds the spadix, a central spike covered in tiny flowers.

To keep things simple, for this pattern we’ll call this beautiful bloom a lily flower (your choice of calla or peace!) with a single petal and a yellow centre.

Terminology

ch	chain
invdec	invisible decrease Note: If you prefer, you may use a standard sc2tog decrease in place of each invdec.
sc	single crochet (double crochet for UK/Aus)
sl st	slip stitch
st	stitch

You will need…

• E US/3.5mm crochet hook
• Small quantity of worsted weight yarn in white or another floral colour (e.g. cream, yellow, orange, pink, purple) plus yellow for the flower centre and green for the stem
• Yarn needle
• Stitch marker
• Floral wire (or other stiff wire), or bamboo skewer or thin dowel for the stem

I used worsted weight yarn and a size E hook, which produced a large 5″x2″ (13x5cm) flower. (Your gauge and yarn choice will affect the finished size slightly.) Try using a finer yarn or crochet thread with a correspondingly smaller hook to give a more compact flower.

Crochet Instructions

Notes

• Do not join at the end of each round; rounds are worked in continuous spirals.
• Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. Move the marker up as you start each new round.

Colour code
A: white or your choice of colour for petal (spathe)
B: yellow for centre of flower (spadix)
C: green for stem

Petal

With A, make a magic ring, ch 1.
Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring. (4 st)
Rnd 2: sc in each st around. (4 st)
Rnd 3: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) twice. (6 st)
Rnd 4: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) three times. (9 st)
Rnd 5: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st) three times. (12 st)
Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next 2 st) twice. (16 st)
Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next st) twice. (20 st)
Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 2 st) twice. (24 st)
Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 3 st) twice. (28 st)
Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 4 st) twice. (32 st)
Rnds 11-16: sc in each st around. (32 st)
Rnd 17: (sc in next 10 st, invdec, sc in next 4 st) twice. (30 st)
Rnd 18: (sc in next 4 st, invdec, sc in next 4 st) three times. (27 st)
Rnd 19: (invdec, sc in next 7 st) three times. (24 st)
Rnd 20: (sc in next 3 st, invdec, sc in next 3 st) three times. (21 st)
Rnd 21: (invdec, sc in next 5 st) three times. (18 st)
Rnd 22: sc in next 13 st, invdec twice, sc in next st. (16 st)
Rnd 23: sc in next 12 st, invdec twice. (14 st)
Join with sl st to next st and fasten off, leaving a long yarn end for assembly.

Centre

Tip: The centre of the lily is a very narrow tube, with only 4 stitches per round. See my video for tips on working these very narrow tubes. If you still have difficulties, you can make a slightly chunkier centre with 5 stitches per round instead of 4. To do this, just make 5 sc into the magic ring instead of 4, and continue from there with 5 stitches per round.

With B, make a magic ring, ch 1.
Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring. (4 st)
Rnds 2-8: sc in each st around. (4 st)
Join with sl st to next st and fasten off, leaving a long yarn end for assembly.

Assembly

Prepare the Stem

I used floral wire wrapped with floral tape as the base for my stems. (The floral tape is optional but helps to thicken the stem base before you wrap it with yarn). If you prefer, you may omit the stem altogether, or wrap yarn around, or crochet over, a thin wooden dowel or bamboo skewer to make a stem.

Note: The flower is quite heavy, so you’ll need to use a stiff wire or dowel, not a pipe cleaner, for your stem base.

Insert one end of the wire or dowel you’ll be using as the stem into the yellow centre of the flower, so you can see where to begin wrapping the yarn. Starting from just below the height of the covered part (below left), begin to wrap the remainder of the stem with green yarn.

Tip: You may find it easier to wrap the stem if you first remove the crocheted piece (below, right).

For detailed instructions for making stems, see my Easy Yarn-Wrapped Stems for Crochet Flowers video tutorial, or follow the basic instructions below.

To make a yarn-wrapped stem:

1. With the end of the yarn, leave a short yarn tail and tie a single knot tightly around the stem base, about 2cm (3/4″) from the top (below, left).
2. Lay the short yarn tail against the stem, pointing down, and begin to wrap the yarn around both the stem and the yarn tail (below, right).
3. Continue wrapping the yarn all the way to the bottom of the stem. Once the yarn is well-anchored to the stem, and the tail is covered, you may find it faster to rotate the stem so the yarn is wrapped onto it, pausing to push the turns of yarn together if you notice any gaps between them.
4. Knot the yarn around the bottom end of the stem, and secure the knot in place with glue before cutting the yarn.

Attach the Centre

Flatten the petal so the increases near the top are at the sides, and the decreases in the final rounds are at one side of the flattened piece (below, left). The flattened piece will naturally form a slight bowl shape.

Place the centre on top of the petal, so the open end of the centre is two rounds higher than the open end of the petal.

Using a yarn needle and the long yarn end from the centre, make a couple of stitches to secure the lower edge of the centre to the petal where the two pieces touch (below, right), making sure to only stitch through the upper layer of the petal so your stitches won’t show from the outside. Fasten off securely and lose the remaining yellow yarn end inside the centre.

Wrap the Petal

If you removed the stem from the centre, re-insert it now. Fold the side with the decreases (arrow, below, left) tightly over the stem, and make a few stitches to hold the lowest 3 rounds of the edge to the inner layer only of the other side of the petal (dotted line, below, right).

Do not fasten off.

Now wrap the second side over the first. At this stage, you have a choice:

• For a wide open flower, overlap and stitch down only the lowest few rounds (below, left).
• For a bud-like flower, overlap about a third of the height of the petal, to create a narrower shape (below, right).

When you’re happy with the amount of overlap, stitch the edge of the second side down to hold it in position. Fasten off securely and lose the remaining yarn end between the layers of the flower.

Crochet the Neck

Turn the flower to look at the bottom – there should be about 6-8 stitches around the open edge of the petal that surrounds the stem. (The exact number of stitches isn’t important – it depends on how tightly you wrapped the sides.)

Fasten on by drawing up a loop of C in any of the stitches around the circle (below, left).

Rnd 1: sc in each stitch around, jumping across the gap between the sides when you reach it, to complete the ring (below, right). (6-8 st)

Note: In the next round, you’ll use invdec stitches to decrease the number of stitches to 4 or 5, or as few as you can comfortably work with. (Again, the exact number of stitches isn’t important – it depends on the thickness of your stem, and how easily you can insert your hook without the stem getting in the way!)

Rnd 2: sc in the first stitch, then invdec and/or sc around to complete the round (4 or 5 st)
Rnds 3-4: sc around. (4 or 5 st)

Note: To create a longer neck, add more rounds of sc now, before you fasten off.

Join with sl st to the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a long yarn end.

Run your fingers down the neck, away from the flower, so the green stitches elongate and nestle closely to the stem and the neck doesn’t look too bulky.

Using a yarn needle, weave the yarn end through the outer loop of each of the remaining stitches (below, left), then pull tight to draw the edge smoothly down around the stem and lock it into position (below, right). Secure the yarn, then lose the end within the neck.

Note: This is basically the same method as the Ultimate Finish for closing a remaining hole – except that you have a stem protruding from the middle of the hole!

Final Shaping

Re-crease the sides of the flower so the edges regain their flattened shape (below, left). Shape the flower by curving the tip back as much as you want (below, right), and, for a more open flower, you can also curve the upper edges back slightly too.

If you don’t treat it roughly, your flower will hold this shape with no assistance! (And you can also reshape it again later, if needed.)

I hope you enjoy this pattern. Please leave me a comment below if you do, and consider leaving me a donation. Thanks!